It's been almost 20 days since I had experienced my
best days of jazz ever. These dreamy days have been lived in North Sea Jazz
Festival 2013. You know; when you have so many data in your hand, you
generally do not know where to start. That’s why I have waited so long to write
an overall review of what I lived in my first North Sea Jazz Festival. I am
intentionally predefining my review as “what I lived in North Sea”,
because in my opinion a normal human being can live at most quarter of what’s
going on throughout these three busy and jazzy days.
Since this review is written also to give general
information for any possible new participants for following years, I’d like to
start with a little bit about the organization, place and travel from abroad. The
festival has been held since 1976. The place was Hague until it is
decided in 2006 that Rotterdam will be the new home for North Sea
Jazz Festival. You can easily arrive at Rotterdam in at most 30 minutes from Amsterdam
Airport. The city is small. Therefore it is never a problem to reach to the
Ahoy, the port on which the festival is held. All you have to do is to
stay at a hotel near to a subway station. With its beautiful view, my hotel Inntel
was, for instance, was a nice place for being on the line of subway to Ahoy and
near to the Central Station, where the train from Amsterdam touches to
Rotterdam.
Although it was my first time in North Sea Jazz, I
had a general opinion about the festival, mostly thanks to some of my jazz
enthusiast friends who has been participating in the festival for years.
Additionally, started from the day I have decided to join and begun to plan my
schedule, I was a bit aware of what has been going on every year in this
incredible organization managing more than 150 performances with 1200
artists in three days in 15 stages.
In spite of all these previews
of mine for the festival, I was simply in the state of OMG when I saw the crowd
in front of the Ahoy at 2.30 pm, almost two hours before the doors of Ahoy
opened in the first day July 12th. I have never seen this many people
gathered to listen to jazz by paying almost 70 Euros for a single day or
200 Euros for three days (I am not counting at least two plus concerts
for each day priced 15 Euros or 30 Euros). I have also observed
that many people could not find 3-day or 1-day ticket at the first day. I have
heard that at least 30000 visitors have come to Ahoy each day for the
festival. I have bought the tickets almost two months ago to prevent such
things and I advice the same for all future participants.
Let
me give some information also about the physical structure of Ahoy. There are
four floors including the entrance floor. Most of the performance halls are at
the entrance, floor 0 : Nile, Maas, Congo, Congo Square, Mississippi,
Amazon, Darling and Hudson.
Only Mississippi and Congo
Square are open air places. Rests of these halls are concert halls in
different sizes.
Smaller ones, which are mostly resembling to fairly large jazz clubs, are located on upper floors: Yenisei on first floor, Madeira (and Tigris) on second floor and Volga on third floor. I have to mention that some other places in which many exhibitions, resting places, VIP events and interviews are realized: Central Square is in the entrance level to take something to eat and to sit down while watching previous year’s legendary concerts or the ongoing performances of celebrity musicians in the biggest hall Nile. Birdland is for VIP events. Jazz Cafe is on the first floor for questions & answers and interviews. Mekong is on the third floor for Jazz Art exhibitions. In addition to these, there were many stands near to Central Square which includes exhibition and sales of CD, LP, instrument and hi-fi speakers. There were many drink stands and fairly enough types of food places most of which are located near to Central Square and some of which (mostly smelly ones) are located outside on the open air way from Nile to Hudson passing through Mississippi.
Considering 2013’s program I can easily say that
the styles of the music (although its main genre seems to be jazz) tried to be
distributed in almost all aspects or kinds residing in the vicinity of
jazz. From hard-bop to Nordic, from Latin to avant-garde, from R&B to funk
and from soul to blues. Therefore, I think the participants’ profiles were
widely distributed in age, hometown and wealth. All these different styles seem
to be consistently distributed to different places. For instance, bands having
a real American Jazz style were generally in Hudson. Terence
Blanchard, Branford Marsalis, Roy Hargrove, Charles Lloyd
and Ron Carter have all performed in Hudson. We also saw some names from
other schools in this hall, who are certainly affected by mainstream jazz
such as Avishai Cohen, Kurt Rosenwinkel, Monty Alexander, Michel
Camilio, Zakir Hussain and Eliane Elias. Amazon can be
shown as the biggest hall for jazz. It is mostly used for plus concerts whose
tickets are sold individually. Chick Corea, Herbie Hancock, Diana
Krall, Dee Dee Bridgewater and David Sanborn’s concerts were
all in Amazon. Two symphonic performances, EST Symphony and Eric Vloeimans
and Limburgs Symfonie were also in Amazon where a big stage is needed. Darling
and Congo were hosting generally bands performing with a higher energy
level and decibel with many electronic contributions. Robert Glasper with
Lionel Leouke, Next Collective and Electric Masada from
Darling and John Medeski from Congo can be given as examples.
From the
snapshots I have added to my review you can easily see that the most crowded
place for jazz lovers was the indoor way between Amazon and Hudson which
includes also the entrance of Darling. This path was generally blocked when a long queue
for a well-known name in Darling and start or finish of another important
name’s performance in Hudson are coincided. Maas and Nile are
giants of the place. The celebrities such as Sting, Santana, Jamie
Cullum, Bonnie Ratt, Steve Winwood and John Legend
were listened at Nile. Jazz, Funk (even Soft Rock) and R&B
singers with big bands were generally at Maas. Gregory Porter, Gretchen
Parlato, Ben Harper, Anthony Hamilton, Brecker Bands
Reunion can be given as examples from Maas. Madeira, although it is
on the lower lines in the daily program sheets, can be one of the most
important places for real jazz lovers in North Sea with its line-up such as Kenny
Barron, The Cookers, Willie Jones, Steve Coleman, Steve
Swallow and Carla Bley. Yenisei and Volga have been
the place generally for qualified European Jazz musicians such as Mathias
Eick, Yaron Herman, Ivo Neame and Martin Tingvall.
Outdoor performance places Mississippi and Congo Square were
generally presenting big bands featuring soloists or entertaining rhythmic
groups. Anat Cohen has performed in Mississippi. I should also tell you
that we have a Turkish singer performing in Missisippi: Karsu Dönmez.
In this three days program most of my time has
passed in Hudson, Amazon and Yenisei. Madeira was the place that I’d like to be
very much in but I generally waited at the door because of its small capacity.
For all these three days – since it is my first
time – my main policy was to listen to as many different musicians as I can
achive. However I have also chosen three performances for each day which I’d
like to experience on a good seat from beginning to end. Between these three
performances I was planning to see small partitions from some names that I have
never seen before on the stage. This way, I saw at least seven performances
each day in almost 9 hours.
During realizations of these plans, most of the
time, walking between my main performances to small partitions became a real
rush and a stressful act. This also sometimes prevented me from comfortably
eating and drinking. But you know, who cares eating when there is good music
playing. My single mistake, I think, was to divide some performances into two
when two of my favorite musicians exactly coincided at the same interval. The
organization has no contribution to this, everything is a result of my vast
musical taste and hunger. I strongly recommend you not to do that division and to
decide on one.
Let me also shortly review each performance I have joined. The first day has started with a single piece from Anat
Cohen and Royal Conservatory & Codarts Big Band in Mississippi. Then I
was at the fabulous performance of Terence Blanchard, Brice Winston, Fabian
Almazon, Joshua Crumbly and Kendrick Scott in Hudson. Terence Blanchard
was as perfect as he usually is. The pianist Fabian Almazan and the drummer Kendrick Scott were highlights of the concert. The single mistake
that I have seen during the festival may have happened in this performance: the
announcement system mistakenly worked twice and told something in Dutch in the
middle of Terence Blanchard’s performance.
My second station in July 12th was Amazon
for a single piece from Eric Vloeimans, Martin Fondse and Limburgs Symfonie.
The compositions were brilliant. Congo was the next place to hear again just a
single piece from John Medeski with Martin & Wood. They have a great
album together. Their performance seemed to have gathered many listeners from
this festival.
Then, for my second concert in first day, I passed
immediately to Yenisei, where Mathias Eick performed with Andreas Ulvo,
Audun Erlien, Andreas Bye and Kenneth Kapstad. Yes, you did not read it
wrong or I did not write it mistakenly. We simply had two drummers on the stage
with two full drum-sets. I was really wondering this performance since the one
in İstanbul just before North Sea was cancelled. The pieces were mostly from
his ECM album Scala. Many electric ingredients and two drummers turned the
concert into a very tensional one. It was a good concert when evaluated in
general but I was expecting a better one considering overall sound created. I
think Yenisei is a bit problematic place for music performances because of its
low ceil heights considering mostly mid-frequencies. Mathias Eick's followers know very well his unique sound from the trumpet which has many
layers that should certainly be given to the audience in a live performance.
Moreover, the sound produced seems to need a bigger hall. I think Darling could
be a better place.
Diana Krall was waiting in Amazon for the first
plus concerts of the festival at around 9 pm on July 12th. I have never
listened to her lively before. Listening to jazz celebrities is always a
strange experience for me. You know, big concert halls, cold and far away stage
and lots of fans around are not the things a real enthusiastic jazz listener
like. Diana Krall is an important jazz vocal however. She sings flat – I mean
real flat. Many find this boring but less know that singing flat – like talking
in daily life – is a real difficult thing to do. During her beautiful
performance she sang many songs from really earlier times of jazz and blues.
She also has covered some Neil Young’s wonderful compositions – this was my
favorite part in the concert. I had to leave Diana Krall’s last two or three
performances to have a look at Santana and Monty Alexander Trio Plus. Santana
was just a big show at Nile. The Hudson’s door was almost stuck because of
the crowd. What I see was a big applause from the audience after each piece. As
far as I have experienced in last two pieces, Monty Alexander Trio Plus’
concert was just great even resulting an encore which is rare in North Sea
due to tight schedule.
My first day has finished with two coincided
performances – the incredible Roy Hargrove Quintet and our qualified
European pianist Yaron Herman. I have chosen Roy Hargrove as the
entrance. Both performances were telling stories from different worlds but with
same level of beauty. Roy Hargrove’s compositions and performance were great
again. I should admit that I hardly left it.
July 13th has started with Gretchen
Parlato and Gregory Porter in Maas with a full house. What a wonderful
voice they both have. Their duo performance was just touching. Before E.S.T.
Symphony, I have seen a single performance from Sangam project of Charles
Lloyd, Zakir Hussain and Eric Harland at Hudson. When I was passing to
Amazon I have tried to enter Madeira for Kenny Barron’s Platinum Trio
but the door was closed and there was a long queue. As far as I have heard from
my friends, Kenny Barron’s performance was fabulous.
My first beginning to end concert in second day was
E.S.T. Symphony in Amazon, a symphony project achieved by composer/conductor
Hans Ek, bassist Dan Berglund and drummer Magnus Öström whose
names you will remember as the living members of one of the best European jazz
trios in jazz history Esbjörn Svensson Trio. After Esbjörn’s passing away we
can see this symphony project as the most important work Magnus and Dan are
presenting together. I had seen them in İstanbul three day before their North
Sea performance and wrote a detailed review about that great concert. The
line-up is changing in each E.S.T. Symphony concert. There were many different
names in the premiere in Stockholm and İstanbul. Here in Rotterdam, we had Yuri
Honing on saxophone, İbrahim Maalouf on trumpet, Kurt Rosenwinkel
on guitar, Yaron Herman and Martin Tingvall on piano. Since the
interval defined for the concerts are not long enough in North Sea we had some
missing pieces compared to İstanbul and Stockholm such as Seven Days of
Falling. Again, an interesting difference is that there are trumpet players in
Stockholm and Rotterdam but we did not see a trumpet player in İstanbul. The
Amazon stage was big enough for the big orchestra and the sound was very good
compared to a bit problematic sound created in İstanbul. The stage placements are a bit different too.
Magnus, Dan and other soloists were at the forefront right after Hans Ek. I
learned that they were preferring to be at the back but the stage structure of
Amazon caused them to do this. I am excluding the incredible Marius Neset in
İstanbul, but I think soloist performances were generally better in North Sea
than what we listened to in İstanbul. Even Magnus and Dan were a bit more
energetic. I think two most important parts of the concert were İbrahim
Maalouf’s wonderful and oriental contribution with his quarter-tones to the
piece Behind The Yashmak and the guest appearance of Jamie Cullum in the
last piece Love is Real. Besides I have at last met face to face Wilfried Rijsemus, a real jazz lover from Holland with whom I share many interests in jazz for a long time especially for E.S.T. stuff.
After E.S.T. Symphony concert I was planning to see
Willie Jones III in Madeira but what I see was again a big queue and
closed doors. Again friends joining the concerts mentioned me that what I am
missing was another great performance. Before passing to my second plus concert
to Amazon I wanted to have a look at Eliane Elias, Randy Brecker and Marc
Johnson at Hudson. The concert was fairly good but mostly for looking for a
calm Brazilian sound.
Chick Corea and The Vigil at Amazon was a real
promising concerts for most of us with Christian McBride on bass. I have lately
listened to these two great musicians with the incredible Brian Blade on drums
in a wonderful concert. The musicians and compositions were surely all good but
I think because of our great expectations the overall performance was not
satisfactory.
After an early exit from Amazon I found the
opportunity to join Questions and Answers of Magnus Öström and Dan Berglund
in Jazz Cafe in the middle. I found the forefront seat and I barely noticed
that the woman I am telling “excuse me” while passing was Dee Dee
Bridgewater waiting for her turn after them. I made some contributions and
asked some questions. I also found some time to talk to my heroes after the
event. It was again very depressing to remember Esbjörn’s death.
The last part in my second day was including three
single performances from The Cookers in Madeira, Zorn at 60 Electric Masada
in Darling and Talking Cows in Volga. The Cookers were really good. The
Electric Masada has the highest decibel I have ever heard in a jazz festival. I
just had a snapshot look at John Legend’s performance in Nile and ran
away from R&B. The end of the day was wonderful with the incredible duo
of Michel Camilio and Tomatito. They were really energetic and lively. The
compositions, arrangements and overall sound in Hudson were really touching.
The last day has the most difficult schedule for
me. I was mostly at Hudson because Kurt Rosenwinkel, Branford Marsalis and
Avishai Cohen were there too in consecutive performances.
To start with Kurt Rosenwinkel’s performance
was not what again the audience expected but anyone should respect the great
technique and sound of this fabulous guitarist. Eric Revis was very good in
this performance as well as he is in Branford Marsalis Quartet. When I have
found some time I had a look at Ivo Neame Octet in Yenisei which
includes Jasper Høiby on bass. In other words, 2/3 of the qualified trio
-Phronesis- was on the stage. I have listened to their performances till
the end. They were just great. Next to this I also found the chance to see Marcus
Miller: The Renaissance at Nile. It was a great show for jazz. Considering
the non-jazz line-up in Nile in three days Marcus Miller’s concert was a very
important one gathering this many people just for jazz. The compositions and
the musicians’ energy were just awesome.
Next Collective is a kind-of-new sound from USA
with Gerald Clayton on piano. We had also the great Christian Scott on
trumpet. Their compositions are carrying also European tastes and the album is
a real success. Since Branford Marsalis Quartet was at Hudson for the following
performance and I would see Next Collective in New York in following days I
convinced myself to see just the entrance piece of this good concert in
Darling.
It was more than a full house in Hudson in Branford
Marsalis Quartet’s Concert. We have noticed that there were something wrong
when Branford could not come instantly to stage when presented and the problem
became evident when we saw that he is trying to fix something in his instrument
while his friends are keeping the performance going on. I am not sure but I
think the instrument has broken while being carried by airways. Fortunately,
after the first performance another musician has made a soprano saxophone to
reach to Branford Marsalis and we have listened to a great concert. Joey
Calderazzo, Eric Revis and Justin Faulkner were just amazing. Can you believe
it? The instrument is hardly working, it is replaced then, you are facing this
problem lively on the stage, your friends have to compensate your absence by
changing arrangements and you can still return for a great performance. All my
respects and WOWs are for Branford Marsalis. This was my first time for his
quartet. Their duo performance with Joey Calderazzo was just touching in
İstanbul and I was looking forward to listening to the quartet. I got what I
expected.
Between Branford Marsalis Quartet and Avishai Cohen
Quartet I tried to see Steve Swallow Quintet in Madeira and Joe Lovano in
Amazon. I have managed to enter Madeira and at last could see Steve
Swallow and Carla Bley together on the stage. Amazon was closed due to high
demand.
I have listened to Avishai Cohen Trio before. The
quartet configuration and the other musicians were all new for me in live
performance. The energy level of Avishai Cohen Quartet in Hudson at the
entrance was very low and I think the drummer could not join the event with an
enough concentration at first. Later on, the band found their best state and
Avishai has started to impress audience again. The encore was a classical solo
performance from him: Alfonsina Y El Mar. The last jazz concerts I have
seen in the festival were Robert Glasper Experiment with Lionel Loueke in
Darling and Ron Carter and WDR Big Band in Hudson. Besides, after
his fantastic concert in İstanbul, I wanted to listen to Sting again this
time in Nile considering also that Branford Marsalis will be on stage with him.
It was just a wonderful end to this fabulous festival.
If you are a jazz lover, YOU HAVE TO GO TO NORTH
SEA JAZZ FESTIVAL.
If you are interested in jazz but new, YOU SHOULD
GO TO NORTH SEA JAZZ FESTIVAL.
If you are not listening to jazz, YOU MAY GO TO
NORTH SEA JAZZ FESTIVAL.